Adrian Bellworthy (adrian2301)

134 replies · posted

Backhoe Contribution - adrian2301 - Chassis/Stabilizer/Fenders and the Engine. And the hydraulics for the swing frame.

This is the thread for my progress on the Backhoe Collaboration.

Ask me questions, give suggestions and post some images that may help my progress.


  • crew

    Progress so far for the Fenders:

    Few fixes need to be done:

    Booleans need to be fixed, shrink wrap needs work around the fuel filler cap and the bolts need more shape.

    • crew

      Have a thought about the Boolean. They don't work to well with the Solidify Mod. Only needed for the bolt holes, so I might lose the Solidify Mod on that part and model a solid part and add the holes. We'll see what happens.

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    and for the Stabilizer/Chassis:

    Only fix here was to bevel the edges as they are to sharp.

  • woo hoo I'm first! go check mine out lol

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    So thought I would spend some time bevelling some edges on the Chassis.

    Thought I would try adjusting the Bevel Modifier first, few tweaks later, hey presto. Offset to 0.004, uncheck Clamp Overlap, Segments to 3, and Profile to 1. Limit Method unchanged from Angle at 50d. Now got that reflection on the edges.

  • crew

    Shrink Wrap fixed as per live stream tips from theluthier,



    So much better, thanks theluthier , and thanks again spikeyxxx for the shrink wrap tip before.

  • adrian2301 can I see the view from the back on the backhoe?  pweezeeee...grins and bats lashes.

  • crew

    Decided to loose the boolean for the bolt holes and model them.

    What do you think Before or After:

    Before :


  • Cool Adrian! Is that a rectangular cut-out? I think it looks nice but perhaps making a little more of a circular shape where you can see would be better?

    There is definitely good clearance for a socket to go on that bolt though. Very believable.

    • crew

      Your right  I think it needs to be more rounded, especially in the bottom under the bolt.

      What do you think of the Bolt, Rounded or Hexagonal ??

      When I zoom in on an Image its very pixelated and hard to see.

      My issues seem so trivial compared to yours blanchsb .

    • Man adrian2301 I never saw this notification, my bad. Bolts need to be hexagonal where they will be intentionally removed for repair/maintenance. They are an industrial standard. The area surrounding the bolt is typically rounded if the material permits such geometry.

      Here's some fun bolt theory:
      Most bolt fasteners have a hexagonal head or 12 pointed head just because the sockets used in industry only come in 6 and 12 point (typically haha). 12 point are often used in areas where there is tight space and a wrench does not have a lot of room to turn, and 12 sided bolts have a lower torque rating because the heads tend to strip with more torque. 6 sided bolts can handle a ton of torque but require a decent amount of elbow room to turn a wrench on the. This is why you see open ended wrenchs have their profile bend to some kind of angle. It allows for partial turning of a bolt so you can flip the wrench around 180 and get it with hopefully enough angle from the other side. There are some special wrenches out there that are made by Snap-On and other companies that can handle almost any bolt orientation so you can always get them off. Picture below shows such a wrench

      I actually bought a very expensive set of Snap-On Wrenches (my only Snap-On purchase......ever) that had this double open end design and they are worth their weight in gold when you need them. You get 4 different angles per wrench because you get to use both sides, flip around and use both sides again giving you a lot of wiggle room to work a bolt loose in a tight spot where sockets don't fit and there is little to no elbow room............interestingly enough these wrenches are a "special" design and have CAT stamped on them as a Caterpillar promotional item. If I remember correctly they were close to $200-$300 for 12 wrenches on ebay when I got them.

      Rivets are used anywhere that you don't intend pieces coming apart........ever. Like on airplanes the entire outside is typically rivets together because you don't want bolts vibrating loose up in the air and panels ripping off the plane........haha. Rivets are an interesting way of fastening items together if you ask me. Another great engineering idea that works in very specific cases really well.

    • crew

      6 sided then. I would expect these bolts would be loosened or tightened using a socket wrench possibly with a short extension needing less elbow room

    • Oh yeah this is totally a socket wrench scenario. They probably use impact guns on stuff like this (easy on, easy off)

  • crew

    As far as the fenders are concerned I think they are complete:

    Maybe just some slight adjustments to fit with the Cab, and the front Fenders need to be bolted to the front axle.

    As for the Chassis and Stabilizers, Hydraulic lines for the Stabilizers needs to be added, and I think there are more brackets to add to the Chassis. Every time I look at a reference for something else I see another bracket on the chassis.

    And then there is this, a small extra:

    theluthier Does this count as part of my 50% complete?

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    Just looking over the Fenders and feel they are 99.9% complete. Looking at the detailing on the front fenders as talked about in the live stream,

    The fender on the right, as we look at this angle, looks like it maybe new, fitted for this photo op. The left looks older and probably the original for this model of 434E.  So I will stick with what I see as the original. The new is flat but has the edge detail all round, including across the top. The original has the curvaceous look, but not the detail across the top.

    The other point on the rear fenders is the solidify mod,

    This is with default, only rim unchecked.

    And this with, only rim checked.

    With only rim checked, they corner in particular is much cleaner, the question is do I go for an illusion of thickness or actual thickness??

    And one more question for theluthier , would you rather we upload our file with just our parts but with the naming conventions as previously discussed, or as the master but renamed?? I am finding it easier and faster to have a separate file and link in any other parts for referencing.

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    Switched the pipe work from my geo based array and curve mod method , to theluthier (with the help of dostovel and spikeyxxx) method as in the live stream. Much cleaner and so simple.

    • I really like it adrian2301. We need to get together to divvy up the remaining engine parts, unless you are lone-starring it.

      Also, I have been meaning to ask if there is an end-cap feature to add the crimped fittings onto the end of hoses that use bezier curves? I wonder if it is applicable for some of these lines?

    • crew

      Thanks blanchsb , I watched the live stream again and had a little smile when I listened to theluthier 's remarks about the engine, and I admit, I watched that bit twice more.

      Not too much left on the engine it's self, the gearbox was next, but that is probably just one big piece, just a matter of the shape.

      jjakeblended is on the spaghetti around the swing frame, as theluthier said , I'm not so sure that part I linked in the stream will be seen, is it worth the effort. I could probably model it in about an hour or so. Jake has a bigger part right behind the swing frame, where all Kent's and his as well as my 2 lines on the stabilizer all attach, don't think it's worth going further than that.

      What about your end blanchsb , do you know how far your going with the lines on your loader arms??

      By the way dostovel I have two fuel lines to go into the fuel tank. Do you want to attach them to the spacer thing I got as far as or do you want me to continue all the way to the tank??? See Below..... Also your parts just need moving forward a little bit on both sides as there intersecting the chassis. I lined the chassis up with the axles and engine enclosure, if you don't mind.

      Do you mean an end cap feature like on the array modifier??

      I was thinking the same and did look at the settings , but didn't find anything. 

      The best way I found to get an end piece where I want it or the hose to the centre of the fitting is to place the 3D cursor in the centre of that piece and snap the last handle of the curve to the 3D cursor.

      Maybe dostovel will know if that's possible.

    • No one has mentioned who will be picking up the hydraulic lines that lead to the loader arms from the chassis. I can do some research and work that though. I might as well send the lines all the way over to Parker since they don't really interact with anyone else. I'll take a look into that this weekend hopefully.

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      blanchsb I will do these lines 👇as they are actually attached to the chassis. these are the metal ones and then if you take the rubber hoses from there. I haven't looked yet but I assume this would be the same on the otherside.

      We could have one file for the hydraulics. If I create a file with the chassis, loader arms and bucket linked in, model these lines, and then I will pass the file to you. Then you do your lines, then pass it on to ppfbourassa for him to finish off. That way we can keep them all aligned correctly. What do you think??

    • Yeah I like that idea. I'll work on other fittings and routings until then. Let me know when you have your side ready and I'll in turn give my stuff to pfbourassa.

    • crew

      Beautifully updated pipe work adrian2301! Clean and optimal 👌

      I watched that bit twice more.

      Well deserved! Seeing someone go above and beyond is contagious in a project like this ✊

      jjakeblended I've finished placing the 8 hydraulic lines from the swing frame to the digging arm. I can throw the file your way whenever you need it. It will probably be best to cut the lines off cleanly with fittings where my lines are come out on one side and yours come out the other (clean separation of work). Just lemme know!

  • crew

    Started running some hydraulic lines:

    blanchsb ppfbourassa Still need to add a line for the bucket and repeat on the other side and add the connections to the ends of the lines.

    Not sure how the two brackets fix to the chassis, cant find an image to show this.

  • crew

    I think I am almost ready to pass this to you blanchsb 

    Unless you want me to go a bit further.

  • crew

    blanchsb I decided not to add more detail to the control valve at the moment as it most likely won't be seen. I only modelled it as a reference point where the lines start.


    • Thanks. I had a late night trouble call and then I got distracted setting up my motion capture Kinect rig for my PC. Wow that was a doozy to set up but man it is pretty slick deal for only $130 and 4 hours of computer issues, lol

      I'll take a look at it hopefully tomorrow and work on it over the weekend

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    Done the stabilizer hydraulics. jjakeblended they just need to be plugged into the control valve behind the swing frame.

  • crew

    A few images of my contribution to the DOG.

  • crew

    Comparison of hydraulic lines between the originally modelled and resized to "authentic" 1/2 inch diameter.

    First the original:

    and the resized:

    Note: I have resized the lines, fittings and the holes in the brackets but not the overall size of the bracket.

    Thus leaving a large gap between the lines.

    If I resize the bracket I can close these gaps, I like the spacing of the original lines.

    However this would mean moving your lines also blanchsb to line up again.

    I think your right in saying the smaller diameter will look better but only if I also resize the bracket and move them closer together.

    What do you all think??? theluthier spikeyxxx duerer dostovel rritag ketre blanchsb and I can't remember everyone, but if your reading this, please let me know what you think.

    @dogpound Can we get this, a group tag. 

    I have the time to do this as I don't have much else to work on this month, except for a small hump on my fenders.

    I have made a start on the CD player:

    • I say follow your heart, it got you the engine and the cd player and the whole other truck and the lines and the chassis, so hear what it has to say.

    • Just leave them the way they were originally adrian2301

      I can increase the size of my lines to match. I am sure ppfbourassa can agree with me. We have fewer lines than you do and Kent is leaving his as-is since his reference "Mesh-Man" does look pretty decent next to the lines. I'll up my Bevel Depth to 0.5 and 0.75 so that my lines and fittings double in size.

      Let make sure we are in agreement together though before I do that. 

    • adrian2301 I really think the original ones look better, a lot more convincing to me.

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      Thanks guys.

      If I follow my heart, dostovel , then I guess I would agree with spikeyxxx and go with the original, as It does look better from this perspective, however in the bigger picture.......... and if I listen to what it has to say........

       blanchsb, as I discovered it's a lot more work than you first think, I can take it  further and resize the brackets as I have already started, and take another look, with the rest of the dog. I can probably do that tomorrow and post again in the evening. Then all you would need to do is realign the connections.

      My lines will only be visible at certain angles between the battery box and the cab, and at the point they meet yours.

      Yours are perfect as they are. I think they will look noticeably over sized in comparison to the loader arms if you made them bigger.

    • That works. I thought they looked weird on my end when they were bigger. I'll let you follow your inner voice(s). Mine all usually lead me in the rough general direction I want to go. 

    • Might wanna re-watch this:

      There are some better shots in there, it gives a bit of an idea as to how big those tubes are.

    • crew

      Yes spikeyxxx  this was a great find, Iv'e already noticed  a couple of things just from these images, thanks for the reminder.

    • yeah thanks for the reminder on that video spikeyxxx  it was the best find for close ups!

      I feel like my tube sizes look good based on that video. Those totally look like half inch and 3/4 lines on the front to me. Or am I wayyyyy off base here?

      I wonder if the lines in the back are larger? I’ll look into my SIS access tonight to see if I can clarify. The maintenance manual may possibly call out sizes......... wait! Oh man I have a buddy who worked at the facility near Waco that made buckets. i’ll shoot him an email today!

    • crew

      Call me crazy, but I think adrian2301's original lines looked great AND blanchsb's current lines look great too...they're both a bullseye in my believability scale. The connecting fittings smooth over the inconsistency in diameter.

      Double check that your lines have applied scale values: CTRL + A --> Scale. If they're not applied then the curve's depth value will be inaccurate.

      In the end since we all seem to agree that they look good and we've been staring this machine to death for 4 months - i.e. we're honorary 434E experts at this point - I vote we let that be our deciding factor rather than a real-world diameter value.

      PS: Awesome video find spikeyxxx 

    • Kent always is too kind. If he were my current manager he would say: "Move on, you guys are spending way too long on this. It looks good enough."

      I checked my Bez Scale on the curve diameters. They are good and applying scale makes no changes to my lines. I used template curve circles for the diameter on all hose and tube curves in case I needed to change all my hoses in one fell swoop (I actually planned ahead this time, yay!)

      Based on spikeyxxx video he posted. I tried to frame my reference similar to the video and maybe mine are a little skinny but I think I am close. What do y'all think? I'm going to leave mine as is and it sounds like the Big Cookie is happy. Maybe you should leave your's as-is too adrian2301 and we can just work on the transition?

    • crew

      I think I do need to shrink mine a least a little bit. The joints are way bigger, if I just shrink them to match yours the lines will be to large. If I do that you will just have to move your connections over a little, which maybe for the best as the second image shows.

      They bracket is to big, and they are way out west at the moment, I think they need to be closer to the chassis a little. Individually they look OK but next to yours they are obviously oversized. I should have been more diligent from the start, but it's fine, I'll fix it.

    • I think the good enough believable strategy is healthier and more effective than to Fletcher it insane up.

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      You are right dostovel I'm looking at it too much, I need to know when to say that's good enough.

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      Anyway............ I remembered their was a collision with my hydraulic lines and dostovel 's battery box, so I had to resize a little to get them to fit nicely.

      So I made a compromise, but it does mean your, blanchsb , 3 lines at the top just need to move over an inch or so at the joint, and that's job done.

      I meant to look, but I'll ask you instead as I have just tucked Blender in for the night, where the loader arms attach to the chassis, do the holes line up ok???

    • I can definitely move those over. Won’t be nothin-but-a-thang

      As far and the arm connections, I will check tomorrow. Been busy with planned but self-accomplished Jeep repairs today. 

  • crew

    Lined up the front drive shaft with spikeyxxx front axle.

    And the Front Fenders.

    duerer tried to do the same with rear drive shaft and rear axle, however when linking your axle it falls apart.

    • Excellent! Now I can place my screws to fixate your fenders.

      Just the connection to my differential doesn't play well with my latest part...What if I make the counterpart for that rotating joint (there must be an official name for that..) and then we can continue from there with your 'rod', if you get my drift...

    • Adrian, I have a few questions:

      Did you update your file? If so, where exactly? I only have an older version on my Google Drive...Is my file updated?

      Do I need to somehow make a link to Kent's File? I thought that happened automatically, but I'm not so sure anymore...What am I missing?

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      I think I may have done something wrong......

      I downloaded the app and starts syncing after I save a file but only to my drive not the shared drive 

      What have I done or not done??

    • I just checked and the shared drive does have my latest file...We should ask Kent on his Linking Thread.

    • crew

      So I have the shared folder, do I download this or do I just add shortcut to my drive.

      I downloaded it before but it's not syncing with the shared file only with a file in my drive??

    • This is exactly what I was afraid of so I am glad y’all are working out the details while I work on my jeep lol.

      i have often messed up syncing issues between desktop and cloud saved location.

      In my experience as long as I uploaded files via webbrowser and then downloaded them to my local syncing service program I had fewer issues.

       Any time I try adding files to my local desktop syncing program I would tend to struggle seeing it in the cloud. Sometimes it would take a reboot of my Pc before that file began uploading.

      i often use my icloud for this but I still have to reboot my pc some days whe. i want to access my files on another device in the cloud.

      Long story short. It has always been a painful process for me regardless of the service I have used. I’m sure I am doing something wrong too but I haven’t taken the time to research it.

      has Kent made any postings about the next stage?

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      blanchsb It's quite frustrating to be honest, Iv'e looked for solutions online, even on google drive's own help page it's not so helpful.

      spikeyxxx see if it's updated now I been kicking and screaming at it for a while, eventually it will listen, I hope.

    • Sorry, nothing updated as far as I can see; only updated files are mine and Kent's...

      I also looked in the WIP folder, there is also an updated file from Rita.

    • I just tagged Kent in his Linking/Syncing Post.

    • crew

      So I have tried manually and I think it has now updated, if you don't mind trying again spikeyxxx 

    • crew

      syncing is just not working, even though it says syncing on my computer

    • adrian2301 you did it!

      I'm also uploading 'manually', because I'm on Linux and I'll have to (and will) use a paid app. (Free ones appear to be not working or are very unreliable...Google keeps changing their API..).

      Linked in your front fenders and they fit perfectly!

    • crew

      I think I have figured it out. I just read an article about sharing and syncing on google drive.

      Navigate to shared folder, select the DOG-434E-MODEL folder so it is highlighted, Press SHIFT + Z and a pop up will "pop up" with no explanation of what it is,  select MY DRIVE, and a shared file will appear in MY DRIVE folder. (a folder with an outline of a person on it). This file will then sync with the app on DESKTOP. Surprisingly, not, google do not actually mention this. Probably because the want us to use the paid 'Teams' version.

      I'm looking at switching to Linux, as I want to upgrade my CPU, but I also need to upgrade my motherboard, I don't want to pay for a new licence key for windows.

      The only experience I have with Linux is on a Raspberry Pi.

      How do you find it and what distribution do you think is best??

    • I used to be on Windows since I started having my own PC, but when Windows 10 was introduced, I hated it so much that I decided to try Linux (again, I did try it before, but found it way too complicated...).

      One of the problems with Linux is that there are so many different distros, that it's really hard to know which is the best for you.

      I am using Linux Mint, which is very beginner friendly and I can recommend it. You can always switch to a more 'advanced' distro later on if you want..

      Do check out Joe Collins's channel:

      if you want to try Linux, he compares distros and explains how things work and is just great fun to listen to;)

    • crew

      Thanks spikeyxxx I will check it out.

    • crew

      My apologies for missing the confusion. Glad to see you guys have sorted it out. Thanks for digging out the tip about that mysterious popup adrian2301.

      Another good thing about syncing with Google drive is the automatic backups via history that we can recover if something goes wrong.

  • crew

    Looks like I maybe done with the Fenders.

  • crew

    Few screen shots of the chassis.