36 replies ·
posted July 31, 2019 9:34am
If you have applied a subdivision modifier, you can reduce the level of subdivision to get a low poly I guess
As Kent mentionned during the stream "low poly" is not about a number but more about the modeling technique and style.
I'm pretty sure the chest of the course can be considered low poly and has a much higher vertices count than that.
ttobles that looks lo poly to me. Looking pretty good man.
All good advice in here already. Your axe qualifies as low-poly in my book. However your current edgeflow (wireframe pattern) is very gridlike. You could be more optimal if your edgeflow followed the shape better instead of being limited by grid-form:
It could be considered low poly, but I can see ways for it to be improved. Kent definitely has it covered with the better edge flow. Remember: surround your important edges with edge loops and think about how you want the edgeflow to go. Perhaps a good thing to keep in mind is only adding an edge loop if you absolutely have to for better form. Maybe that'll help you to think in a very minimal way. Give it a shot, see what happens. Good effort so far.
If you want to go for low-poly, consider not using a Subsurf Modifier, but Smooth Shading, with Sharp Edges where needed and Auto smooth turned on. Together with Kent's suggestion of edge flow, you could get a good result with very sparse topology.
To reiterate what's been said here, if you're going for low poly a Subsurf modifier is probably best avoided. You can "remove" any subsurf you've applied by adding a decimate modifier and switching it to un-subdivide. It's not perfect by any means and won't bring your model 100% back to its original base but it will definitely get it lower poly if that's what you're looking for.
Hey,thanks to all of you, I appreciate your answers. I'll clean than up how theluthier mentioned it.Just to get the rumors out, I haven't used subsurf, I produced that pile of vertices by starting out with a plane and extruding it. I should've known better, but somehow my brain just can't use what I've learned about good topology :DUpdate:Dang it, I've lost the roundness of that blade. Has somebody an advice about rounding it up, without creating more loopcuts? (Shade smooth and autosmmoth are both turned on)
ttobles You will need at least two more edgeloops like so for instance:
Then select the blade edge and (make sure you have Looptools addon enabled!) Looptools > relax.
(Right click for the specials menu, or if you use right click select, W)
Looptools can also be found in the N-Panel under Edit.
Thx spikeyxxx. It's good to know you are out there, kind of relaxes me :D
An axe, very nice. I´m looking forward to your progress!
Hey ho,a short update of my progress:I made an insert to the axe head and put some runes in/on it. For the next steps i'll try to polish those runes up, so they won't look like Lego-bricks ;) After that is done, I'll turn my eye on the shaft.
Spikey already pointed you in the right direction 👍
Here's a couple other tips: First you can use the "percentage" mode of the bevel tool to smooth out your low poly curve shapes easily:
Second, you can use a subdivison surface modifier to smooth the whole mesh and then apply it. It still counts as low-poly since the smoothed version becomes the new base mesh:
Anyhoo, you're progressing very well. Keep up the good work!
Moin moin,here is my actual progress:I redid the ornaments, added some straps and reshaped the shaft... for ergonimical head-splitting I guess :DIf someone would be so nice and have a look the lower wrappings for the grip. They look strange to me but I can't figure out why and how to change it.When submitting for week 1, do we post a screenshot or some rendered stuff?Greetings,tobles
ttobles Looks good! Some strange shading artefact at the bottom of the axe head...
The lower wrappings do look a bit strange, but imagine them textured; I think that will solve the problem (at least I hope so!).
As for submitting week 1, a screenshot is perfectly fine, seeing that we haven't done any texturing and shading yet....
Can somebody pls have a look at the metal fasting that holds the axe head on the shaft and tell me if they are too tiny and should be bigger, wider or longer etc. ?
ttobles I think the size is fine visually, however if I think about the sort of functionality of using that axe there's the wrapped portion of the handle where you would hold it when you wanted to really chop something and get a large amount of force behind the swing, but when you wanted to use it for finer more precise chopping work your hand would be up around the section you added the fasteners to which could feel uncomfortable in the hand.
Looking at various reference images online, a lot of other hand axes that incorporate pins to help fix the head to the handle do so by drilling through the head directly. If you wanted some elements visually where the fastners are, maybe consider extending the cord or wrapping you already have there, or repeating the wrap you have near the bottom of the handle near the top.
Maybe something like this.
Homework Submission Week 1For this week, my goal was to model an axe with barbaric/viking/germanic style. I therefore put some runes in an inset on the blade and added some leather straps around the axe head and the shaft. I decided not to add any dings, dongs or scratches to the axe since I want it in a pristine state.In case of grading, I can provide the blend-file if needed.Cheers,tobles
ttobles This turned out nice! I'm getting some God of War 4 vibes. Makes sense, since they're both about Celtci/Norse gods. Good effort!
ttobles Your axe turned out great! It makes me want to watch The Patriot. I like the form, structure, and details. The only notes I have to offer involves the leather strap/cord wrapped around the handle + axehead:
theluthier that's an awesome critic. I'll let it rest for today and think about it, then I'll start with a fresh view on it tomorrow!I'm a little confused with the colors and boxes you talk about?
ttobles Yikes, there seems to have been an error uploading the image. I just updated the post with the correct image.
I've got some troubles with the UV-Layout that I can't solve on my own. I tried to cut some seems on the ornaments of the blade but there is like no way to lay them out without (red) streching. For testing I've cut out like every face for it's own since nothing else worked either. It's still all red. Somebody know what to do?
ttobles Please send a link to your .blend; I'd love to know what's causing this and no matter how hard I look at the screenshot, there is no way for me to figure out what's going on.
spikeyxxx here is a link. If it's not working tell me pls.EDIT
I uploaded the wrong file. This link is the actual one!https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j787vYsOsugT5k60meQA_DBUyvjf19Lr/view?usp=sharing
ttobles Thanks tobles! I think you can call yourself the proud discoverer of a BUG.
It appears, that if you select only one of your pieces of your ornaments and try to unwrap that, it reports heavy stretching, although there is none, or only very little.
If you select all the ornament pieces and then unwrap, it will do as you would expect.
So, this is what you got:
When selecting All and then unwrap:
Still without seams!
With smart UV Project I got this:
I've tested the theory, by duplicating a Cube in edit mode, select one of the two and unwrap.
It said there was area stretching. When selecting both and then unwrapping everything was blue.
So, it's not you, it's 2.80!
Btw, you do have a Normals problem on your axe_shaft_fasting. In case you run into problems there:
Hope this helps!
spikeyxxx thanks a lot
Dang it! I spend a whole week but didn't manager to get something out of it. This is what I got so far and I fear it will be the final result of this week...just dang it!If somebody knows some tutorials which have been useful to you guys I would be happy if you point them out to me. I'd be grateful for tips and how-to's.Greetings tobles
ttobles I like what you've got so far on this axe! Overall the colors feel balanced and like a great place to start when you next get a chance to add some texturing.
I found a lot of good information and techniques here on CGCookie in the Texture Painting an Axe tutorial: https://cgcookie.com/exercise/texture-painting-an-ax
There are also various youtube texture painting tutorials, one I found to be very helpful was a series by a user XRG81.
Thank you gghujelk.I will check XRG81's chanel as soon as I can.
Homework Submission Week 2This week was a dizzying blow to body and brain... I've learned about what I will have to learn and practice in the time after this class. I am not happy with what the outcome of this week.Greetings ,tobles
ttobles I'm sorry to see this week has been hard on you. Thanks spikeyxxx for helping with the problematic scene.
I could be wrong, but the issue you're having with the unwrapped portion of your ornaments seems to be a sign of relative scale being out of whack. It looks like that little piece you unwrapped separately from the rest of the ornaments (even though they're part of the same object). So when you unwrap it, the UVs are scaled way differently that the rest of your pieces and will always show red until the scales of all UV islands are relative to one another.
This is also why selecting all mesh islands and unwrapping results in mostly blue UV islands, since they're scale is relative. Therefore my recommendation is to cut seams for all mesh ornaments and the unwrap them together.
I hate to be a strict grader, but due to this week's assignment being incomplete I give it a C but bump it up to a B for the struggle you experienced 😔
ttobles Hey, you did the best you could with the cards you were handed this week. Now, really get at it this week and bring it home! You got this.
Homework Submission Week 3Hello everybody,this is my submission for Week 3 of this class. It looks a little dark, but that is on purpose, I like it that way (but other opinions are welcome). For this week, I took a step back and went back on the model itself and removed the ornaments. I just couldn't look at them anymore. After that was fixed I took a nose-dive into shading and I really learned something about shading in a short time, I'm very happy about that! I spent some time looking at my render and I have to admit that the outcome of this class wasn't what I was aiming for so it feels kind of like a fail, but on the other hand it's my first time walking through the whole pipeline and doing stuff like texturing, UV's etc. for the first time, what makes me feel very satisfied with the fact that I made it. So the last three weeks were a roller coaster of emotions.EDIT: I inversed the bump map. Thanks spikeyxxx Cheers,tobles
ttobles Good for you tobles!
And I don't think it's too dark.
What bothers me though, is that your Voronoi should probably be inversed...to give it a hammered look, in stead of some kind of lizzard skin or whatever;)
it's my first time walking through the whole pipeline and doing stuff like texturing, UV's etc. for the first time, what makes me feel very satisfied with the fact that I made it
ttobles This is a very impressive result for your fist time. You absolutely should be proud of what you've accomplished. You're already making good choices as an artist too:
I took a step back and went back on the model itself and removed the ornaments. I just couldn't look at them anymore.
It can be very hard to remove elements that you've built with your own two hands mouse and keyboard but sometimes that's the right choice. I think it was in this case: Simplifying the axe design allows you to focus on the shading and I think that paid off. The wood texture looks great and the axe head looks pretty good too. A hammered metal is fitting.
It looks a little dark, but that is on purpose, I like it that way (but other opinions are welcome).
Darkness is certainly a valid artistic choice and when done well it's super effective. Omar's lighting experiments from week 3 are fantastic examples.
In the end I'm going to give you an A because I can see that you adapted this week, backtracked, then persevered to the final result. Good stuff tobles!