In this multi-part series, I’ll be covering how to box-model a stylized dragon, making heavy use of the various sculpt tools. The texturing will cover creating tangent normal maps and using the “toon shader” to get a nice cel-shaded look. I’ll also go into some intermediate rigging with some nice animations; from walking to pouncing to flying. and finally we’ll look into setting up a good composition with props and lighting.

In this fifth part, I add seams to the model and unwrap the UVs, followed by a high-rez sculpt to give some subtle scales here and there. I then create a tangent normal map to apply to the low-rez version, and also bake the Ambient Occlusion.

Dragon<>

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Discussion

35 Responses to “Series: Creating a Stylized Dragon – Part 5”
  1. AEvans
    Posts: 53

    This is really cool! I can’t wait to watch this! Keep up the good work.

    -AEvans

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    1
    Jul 15, 2010 at 11:27 am
  2. Posts: 35

    nice… my commends to Mr. Ward :D

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    2
    Jul 15, 2010 at 11:59 am
  3. Jackal
    Posts: 6

    Just to mention – reason why you get that bad normal map is you reversed selection while you baked. You need to select hipoly version first and then the lopoly version that you are baking into. Then you don’t need to flip direction of influence of normalmap by setting the normal amount in the texture panel to -1.

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    3
    Jul 15, 2010 at 12:56 pm
  4. Posts: 124

    thx David
    :D

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    4
    Jul 15, 2010 at 2:27 pm
  5. MTracer
    Posts: 11

    BTW: Adding to Jackal’s comment, I’m pretty sure you don’t need an image for the high poly version. At least, I never have, and it doesn’t make any sense that you would bake low to high.

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    5
    Jul 15, 2010 at 2:27 pm
  6. Adam M
    Posts: 1

    Amazing series thus far Mr. Ward :) Without a doubt one of my favourite instructors in Blender Cookie. One question though – Would tangent maps work for making any bumps or wrinkles on clothes? I’ve been considering adding clothes to my models with those details but I’m not sure if thats the method I should use.

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    6
    Jul 15, 2010 at 2:33 pm
    • Posts: 261

      sure, it could work very well for that, and save your computer a lot of rendering work later on :)

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      6.1
      Jul 15, 2010 at 5:42 pm
  7. Posts: 261

    thanks guys

    @jackal, mtracer: ah, that makes sense. select the high poly first when doing the “selected to active” bit. gotcha.

    and all others, i finally figured out the sculpt tools thing, so i’ll try to go over it in part 6 :)

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    7
    Jul 15, 2010 at 3:23 pm
  8. Posts: 12

    great tutorial this is really helping me alot ^__^.
    just a quick tip, if you go into edit mode from any other mode, and with all the verticies selected, if you press U it brings up the UV unwrap menu ^__^

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    8
    Jul 15, 2010 at 4:24 pm
    • kram1032
      Posts: 71

      Adding to both Hackal and MTracer:
      Yup, you only need an image on the one you bake to. As you selected the highpoly at last, that one was your active one.
      You can tell by the colour of the object outline – the active is slightly more reddish.
      That’s why you needed the image on the highres one.

      Verts, Edges and Faces can also be active and there are some nice things you can do with the snap tool, if you choose “active”, rather than “closest” – was a real life-saver in two actually quite simple but highly geometric and thus precise works, I did. – life-saver and not time-saver, as without that feature, there would have been no way to do it…

      Btw, thanks a lot for applying the suggestions I gave you for the last vid. :)

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      8.1
      Jul 15, 2010 at 4:45 pm
      • Posts: 261

        right; i guess since i was essentially baking to the high-rez, the “no image to bake to” made sense, as i hadn’t unwrapped the high-rez one. hindsight is 20/20 :D

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        8.1.1
        Jul 15, 2010 at 5:43 pm
  9. Posts: 160

    well i have been resisting making a dragon, but i can resist no longer. it is just way too cool. thanks again, dave!

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    9
    Jul 15, 2010 at 4:49 pm
  10. Rene
    Posts: 2

    Just another mention ambient occlusion didnt work at first because it was set to multiply and if you set it to add you dont need to also add environment lightning. this would probably calculate usable AO Maps for the insight of the mouth

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    10
    Jul 16, 2010 at 5:24 am
    • Posts: 261

      sweet, thanks for the heads up. i’ll keep that in mind next time :)

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      10.1
      Jul 16, 2010 at 9:42 am
  11. Posts: 3

    Just a note to anybody as foolish as me: If you’re getting a grainy map when you bake your Ambient Occlusion, turn on approximate, It should smooth right out. I shoulda trusted Dave.

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    11
    Jul 16, 2010 at 4:10 pm
  12. Posts: 2

    Hey Dave,

    Thanks for this great tutorial series. I’m having a problem. (5.2 at around 5:39) When you switch layers, each layer has it’s own modifier. One has subsurf, and the other multires. But when I do this, each time I add or subtract a modifier it applies to both layers. How do I prevent this?

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    12
    Jul 16, 2010 at 9:39 pm
    • Posts: 2

      Nevermind, misconception on my part:)

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      12.1
      Jul 16, 2010 at 11:33 pm
  13. Mike Hall
    Posts: 17

    I love this tutorial. I am very excited for the next part. I can’t believe it took you so long to use the decimal button. That is probably the most used button for me when I am in blender, other than g. Great job!

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    13
    Jul 18, 2010 at 1:57 pm
    • Posts: 204

      Hey guys! On the decimal point thing… I’ve heard this mentioned a few times and I thought I’d mention that all you really have to do is go into User Preferences and enable Rotate Around Selection. That problem will disappear forever.
      Great Tuts Dave!

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      13.1
      Oct 12, 2010 at 1:49 am
  14. Posts: 10

    Great tut David! love your stuff and am learning so much from you. Thank you for your time.

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    14
    Jul 23, 2010 at 7:45 am
  15. ghyselsguy65
    Posts: 3

    check out this video i found on Blender Cookie that is an excellent video explaining the 2.53 brushes:
    http://www.blendercookie.com/2010/07/23/sculpting-blender-2-53/

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    15
    Aug 9, 2010 at 4:08 pm
  16. Drawain
    Posts: 5

    D: When I want to add scales there’s no mirroreffect. I followed yor (great) tuorial, but I don’t know what to do. :C

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    16
    Oct 26, 2010 at 10:13 am
    • Drawain
      Posts: 5

      Fixed it. xD I’m sorry.

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      16.1
      Oct 26, 2010 at 10:39 am
  17. Drawain
    Posts: 5

    How did you change the “view” in 16:07 (part 5.2) from camera into … ? I couldn’t understand it. I’m sorry. I am good at English, though I am not perfect. ^^’
    And sorry for my questions… I can’t guarantee they will stop in the future because I’m sure there will be more that I’ll don’t understand. But I am still trying to experiment around till I got an answer on my own before I ask.

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    17
    Oct 26, 2010 at 3:46 pm
  18. kilim
    Posts: 1

    hi, great tutorial, i have problem though. Everytime i bake ambient occlusion blender crashes somewhere in the middle of the process. Do you have any suggestions?

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    18
    Nov 12, 2010 at 4:24 am
  19. Posts: 12

    I am having an issue where some seams will not clear. The only way to get them to clear is to delete the segement and recreate it. Is this a bug?

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    19
    Nov 30, 2010 at 11:50 pm
  20. Sherminator
    Posts: 4

    David, you caused me to delete all the games I had on my pc and concentrate on blender. Thanks for helping me do that

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    20
    Dec 7, 2010 at 5:17 pm
  21. Sherminator
    Posts: 4

    David, your tutorial caused me to delete all the games I had on my pc and concentrate on blender. Thanks for helping me do that

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    21
    Dec 7, 2010 at 5:18 pm
  22. Posts: 140

    Well, I made it as far as I can with my little pc. Will try again when I have more power.

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    22
    Jan 27, 2011 at 1:05 am
  23. Posts: 140

    Back in buisness, found that shutting off the video saved me enough memory to bake the HR :)

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    23
    Jan 28, 2011 at 11:17 am
  24. grumpyestonian
    Posts: 6

    Hi, part two of the video appears to be missing. Is there any way someone can put it back up? Thanks! I’m enjoying the series so far. Modeling is the easy part for me, so I was just getting to the part I can really learn from!

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    24
    Oct 4, 2011 at 10:42 pm
    • Posts: 1761

      There you are! Part 2 is now displayed inline with the description.

      -Jonathan

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      24.1
      Oct 5, 2011 at 8:47 am
      • grumpyestonian
        Posts: 6

        Sweet! That was quick! Thank you so much!

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        24.1.1
        Oct 5, 2011 at 1:27 pm
  25. Posts: 11

    Why was it when you used the sculpt tool on the tail fins (vid 2 4:55) it went through to the other side?

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    25
    Nov 19, 2011 at 12:22 pm
  26. TG
    Posts: 2

    An easy way to select a run of edges to mark seams: In vertex select, select the start and end points; under the selection menu click “vertex path”. It will select the shortest run between the two points. You can then tweak the selection before you mark the seam.

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    26
    Mar 24, 2012 at 2:15 pm

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